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European
patchwork
from
the 14th century
Quilt
historian Lisa Evans, whose specialty is medieval and
pre-Colonial quilting, points out this remarkable
patchwork textile which was found covered with mud at the
bottom of a castle well in Budapest, Hungary.

The
silk textile is worked in both patchwork and applique, and
features on-point blocks about a foot square, alternating
setting squares pieced of red and white with appliqued
blocks with the (Hungarian) Árpád and (Neapolitan)
Angevin heraldic devices (referring to King Charles
Robert, whose father was king of Naples and Duke of Anjou,
France).
The
Budapest Museum notes that a similar textile covers the
back of King Charles Robert's throne. For more
information and images, visit the Budapest
History Museum site.
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"Looking
black": collectors, attribution,
and the
Ora Phillips quilt
When
the quilt pictured at left appeared in a 2003 exhibit of
African- American quilts at Abilene, Texas's Grace Museum,
its descriptive label included a typical discussion of
African-American quilt style:
Improvisation
is a tradition highly recognized in African American
quilts that quilt historians believe stem back to
the ancient traditions of many African tribes.
African textile traditions often featured bright
colors, asymmetry and large shapes.
Additionally a belief among many tribes was the
importance of the ability to recreate and change old
patterns. A break in pattern could symbolize a
rebirth in the ancestral power of the creator or
wearer, or even potentially keep evil spirits away.
A traditional belief about evil traveling in
straight lines encouraged the use of irregular
patterns. Many people believed that a break in
pattern or line confuses the spirit and slows them
down.
The
museum identified the quilt as having been made c.1995 by Ora
Phillips, and said it was on loan from its owners, Joe
and Sandy Todaro. Sandy Todaro was co-curator of the
2003 exhibit A
Piece of My Soul: Quilts by Black Arkansans, and also
played a major role in assembling the African-American quilt
collection at the Arkansas Old State House Museum.
In the late 1980s she co-directed the Louisiana Quilt
Documentation Project with Judy Godfrey, who in 2003 was
the Grace Museum's director. Godfrey had asked
Todaro to provide many of the quilts in the current
exhibit.
A
highlight of the exhibit was a lecture by Caroline Streeter, Ph.D., of
UCLA's English Department and Center for
African-American Studies. Discussing "The Movements of Spirit in Everyday
Life: African-American Quilters and the Creative
Impulse," Streeter relied on Tobin and Dobard's Hidden
in Plain View to use the quilt as an example of
the "Underground
Railroad quilt code" and of "the power
of color, which Tobin and Dobard identify as part
of West African heritage."
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But Ora Phillips's
quilt bears an uncanny resemblance to one made more than
a century ago which appeared on the cover of Kentucky
Quilts (1982), in the Spring 1983 issue of Lady's
Circle Patchwork and Quilting magazine, and in
Terri Zegart's 1994 Quilts: An American
Heritage, and also toured nationwide in a
Smithsonian exhibit.
That
quilt was
made of homespun "linseys" (cotton warp, wool
filling) in the mid-1890s by a young
white girl, Nancy Miller Grider
of Russell County, Kentucky, whose parents
were of English, Scots and French ancestry. (Recent
genealogical research by Grider's great-granddaughter
indicates that family lore of Cherokee ancestry had no
factual basis.)
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Anglo-French
Kentuckian Nancy Miller Grider's mid-1890s quilt.
Click for details |
Not only does Ora Phillips's quilt imitate Grider's overall design and proportions;
it also has four blue-green segments arranged in a cross,
other segments which from a distance look like red and black plaid, and a center disk
whose hemispheres are red and orange.
In
March 2007 Ora Phillips's quilt - described as having been made by "an
elderly African-American woman near Little Rock" - sold on
ebay for $1,575. Few quilts listed on the online auction
site reach $500.
Months
after the auction ended, I discussed the quilts with Shelly
Zegart, founder of the Kentucky Quilt Project and editor of Kentucky
Quilts. Zegart suspected Ora Phillips's quilt had a more distant
origin than Arkansas.
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Thanks to
ephemera dealer Debra Spencer of Suit
Yourself International, I was able to confirm Zegart's
recollection. The quilt
exhibited at the Grace Museum was identical to an illustration
of a mass-produced, Chinese knockoff
of the Grider quilt in the November 1998 J.Peterman catalog,
whose twin size sold for $225.
A Peterman representative said the quilt was one of several
reproductions they bought from the inventory of an unidentified importer
no longer in business (perhaps Arch Quilts of Elmsford, New York,
known for its high-end Chinese-made quilts?).
All
together now - Clockwise
from above: The J.Peterman catalog illustration, the
"Ora Phillips" quilt, and the
original - the Nancy Miller Grider quilt. Peterman
catalog courtesy Suit
Yourself International. |

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When
the maker or origin of a quilt constitutes part of its value,
provenance (the documented chain of ownership back to its
creator) is important. The "Ora Phillips" quilt
was legitimized (and its value enhanced to more than
$1,500) by appearing in the museum exhibit
with Todaro and her husband identified as its owner. Lecturer Streeter naturally assumed the
curators and Todaro had verified the quilt was indeed an
African-American original. Mark French, the ebay
seller, says he trusted
what he was told when he bought the quilt from Ohio dealer Michael
Council, who got the quilter's
name and race and the museum flyer from Todaro herself when she sold him the quilt.
But
Todaro says the museum and Council were mistaken, and she was
just the go-between. In reality, she said, the
unused, unwashed quilt
- "one of the most graphic" she has seen -
belonged to a now-dead, unnamed friend, who bought the quilt
directly from Ora Phillips. Todaro said she had
simply brought the quilt to the museum, and later, when
her friend became ill, sold it
to Council on her behalf. She had no valid contact
information for her friend's family.
I
was able to locate only two Arkansas women, living or
dead, named Ora Phillips born before 1960. Both are
white.
Later,
after
being shown pictures of the Peterman and Grider quilts, Todaro
said did not "have enough knowledge to inject an
opinion" but that her friend "would not have knowingly
reported false data". She said her friend had bought the
quilt for $350 at a craft or flea market near Little Rock from
an African-American woman named Ora Phillips, and that when her
friend had asked Phillips about the inspiration for her
design, Phillips replied that "she’d seen something
similar that inspired her in a catalog or book" whose name
she could not recall.
But
the
Phillips quilt is not merely "similar" to the Peterman
illustration. It is virtually identical, right down to the
fabrics. Either
Phillips's quilt was inspired by
Grider's and became the prototype for the Peterman quilt (but
was never revealed as such); or Phillips somehow forgot
she had made a line-for-line copy of the Peterman quilt;
or
a mass-produced knockoff of a 19th century white Kentucky
girl's well-known original quilt was successfully passed off as the
recent, unique
handiwork of an elderly black Arkansan.
Whichever the case, the
"Ora Phillips" quilt cannot be described as an
example of African-American "improvisation,"
African-inspired color and design, or "Quilt
Code" symbolism. Instead,
as Streeter observed when she learned of the quilt's true origin, it stands as an object lesson in "how
historical inaccuracies, errors and nonfactual information
take root and become perpetuated, whether it is a matter
of incomplete research, the failure to verify sources,
taking information on faith, getting carried away by
imagination, etc. etc., and it is far from unique."
Whether
French ever informed the high bidder of this quilt's
recent origin is unknown.
Diaspora-era African
textile history online
Thanks to exhibits
like the one discussed above, when asked to describe a
"typical" African-American quilt many people will use
words like "improvisational,"
"strip-pieced", "multiple patterns,"
"brightly colored" and "rhythmic", all of
which are described as "Africanisms."
Some, such as folklorist John Michael Vlach, have even claimed
that African-Amerian quilts that lack these attributes
"reflect a lesson well-learned rather than a heritage
well-remembered," and that "the only thing African or
Afro-American about" such quilts is their makers'
race. Black quilters who use subdued colors and regular
patterns are, according to this view, acting white.
Vlach, Wahlman,
Dobard and others trace these Africanisms to contemporary
African textiles, many of which do indeed share those
attributes.
But would these
fabrics have been familiar to the people brought here as slaves
in the 18th and early 19th centuries? Are those
"textile memories" reflected in African-American
quilts such as those made in Gee's Bend? How accurate are
conventional ideas about Africanisms in African-American quilts?
I have been
investigating this subject for the past two years, and the
answers are surprising.
Because of its
length, I am publishing my research in serial form. The first
several parts can be found here,
and you can request notice of later installments by clicking here.
At the end of
the series, I hope to be able to provide some ideas for
quilt designs that recall the textiles America's
African-born slaves would have known and used.

Chainstitch
sewing machines
The
earliest sewing machines - for example, the Wilcox &
Gibbs machines first manufactured in the 1850s - didn't
use two threads (top and bobbin). Instead, they used
just one thread to produce a chainstitch. If
you've ever dismantled a vintage feedsack or had to pull
that little string to open a bag of grass seed, you've
seen chainstitching. But for dressmaking, the
stitches were really small - in the sample below, 20 per
inch! The seam is incredibly strong and, as you'll
see below, rather pretty too. Read more about
chainstitch machines here.
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One
side of machine chainstitching (fabrics c.1875)...
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...and
the other.
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