QUILTS

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Spotting Chinese knockoffs

Ebay quilt scammers

Easy binding instructions

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QUILT HISTORY:

Underground Railroad Quilt Code 

Printable .pdf version now available!

"Looking black": collectors, attribution, and the Phillips quilt 

African textiles of the slave trade era

Arch Quilts - imported repro quilts

Newcomb Loom Works quilt patterns

Brief history of the 9-Patch Block 

Chainstitch sewing machines

Swatchbook:  Before 1840

Swatchbook:  Before 1850

Swatchbook:  1850-75

Swatchbook:  1870-1885

Swatchbook:  1890-1915

Swatchbook:  early Depression

Swatchbook:  late Depression

Swatchbook: early 1950s

Fabrics in old Sears catalogs 

"Turkey" red

Double process greens

"Cotton seeds" and other notes 

on quilt batting

Ladies Art Company pattern books

FULL 1922 and 1933 CATALOGS ONLINE

Century of Progress quilt patterns

FULL 1933 BOOK ONLINE

"Autumn Leaf" quilt history

Double Wedding Ring history 

Sunbonnet Sue history 

19th century machine quilting 

Old quilting machine photos!

"Humility" blocks

Regional Amish quilt styles 

European patchwork

from the 14th century 

Quilt historian Lisa Evans, whose specialty is medieval and pre-Colonial quilting, points out this remarkable patchwork textile which was found covered with mud at the bottom of a castle well in Budapest, Hungary. 

The silk textile is worked in both patchwork and applique, and features on-point blocks about a foot square, alternating setting squares pieced of red and white with appliqued blocks with the (Hungarian) Árpád and (Neapolitan) Angevin heraldic devices (referring to King Charles Robert, whose father was king of Naples and Duke of Anjou, France).

The Budapest Museum notes that a similar textile covers the back of King Charles Robert's throne.   For more information  and images, visit the Budapest History Museum site.

 

"Looking black":  collectors, attribution, 

and the Ora Phillips quilt 

When the quilt pictured at left appeared in a 2003 exhibit of African- American quilts at Abilene, Texas's Grace Museum, its descriptive label included a typical discussion of African-American quilt style:

Improvisation is a tradition highly recognized in African American quilts that quilt historians believe stem back to the ancient traditions of many African tribes.  African textile traditions often featured bright colors, asymmetry and large shapes.  Additionally a belief among many tribes was the importance of the ability to recreate and change old patterns.  A break in pattern could symbolize a rebirth in the ancestral power of the creator or wearer, or even potentially keep evil spirits away.  A traditional belief about evil traveling in straight lines encouraged the use of irregular patterns.  Many people believed that a break in pattern or line confuses the spirit and slows them down.

The museum identified the quilt as having been made c.1995 by Ora Phillips, and said it was on loan from its owners, Joe and Sandy Todaro.   Sandy Todaro was co-curator of the 2003 exhibit A Piece of My Soul: Quilts by Black Arkansans, and also played a major role in assembling the African-American quilt collection at the Arkansas Old State House Museum.   In the late 1980s she co-directed the Louisiana Quilt Documentation Project with Judy Godfrey, who in 2003 was the Grace Museum's director.  Godfrey had asked Todaro to provide many of the quilts in the current exhibit.

A highlight of the exhibit was a lecture by Caroline Streeter, Ph.D., of UCLA's English Department and Center for African-American Studies. Discussing "The Movements of Spirit in Everyday Life:  African-American Quilters and the Creative Impulse," Streeter relied on Tobin and Dobard's Hidden in Plain View to use the quilt as an example of the "Underground Railroad quilt code" and of "the power of color, which Tobin and Dobard identify as part of West African heritage." 

But Ora Phillips's quilt bears an uncanny resemblance to one made more than a century ago which appeared on the cover of Kentucky Quilts (1982), in the Spring 1983 issue of Lady's Circle Patchwork and Quilting magazine, and in Terri Zegart's 1994 Quilts:  An American Heritage, and also toured nationwide in a Smithsonian exhibit.

That quilt was made of homespun "linseys" (cotton warp, wool filling) in the mid-1890s by a young white girl, Nancy Miller Grider of Russell County, Kentucky, whose parents were of English, Scots and French ancestry. (Recent genealogical research by Grider's great-granddaughter indicates that family lore of Cherokee ancestry had no factual basis.)   

Anglo-French Kentuckian Nancy Miller Grider's mid-1890s quilt. Click for details

Not only does Ora Phillips's quilt imitate Grider's overall design and proportions; it also has four blue-green segments arranged in a cross, other segments which from a distance look like red and black plaid, and a center disk whose hemispheres are red and orange.

In March 2007 Ora Phillips's quilt - described as having been made by "an elderly African-American woman near Little Rock" - sold on ebay for $1,575.  Few quilts listed on the online auction site reach $500.  

Months after the auction ended, I discussed the quilts with Shelly Zegart, founder of the Kentucky Quilt Project and editor of Kentucky Quilts. Zegart suspected Ora Phillips's quilt had a more distant origin than Arkansas.

Thanks to ephemera dealer Debra Spencer of Suit Yourself International, I was able to confirm Zegart's recollection.  The quilt exhibited at the Grace Museum was identical to an illustration of a mass-produced, Chinese knockoff of the Grider quilt in the November 1998 J.Peterman catalog, whose twin size sold for $225.  A Peterman representative said the quilt was one of several reproductions they bought from the inventory of an unidentified importer no longer in business (perhaps Arch Quilts of Elmsford, New York, known for its high-end Chinese-made quilts?). 

All together now - Clockwise from above:  The J.Peterman catalog illustration, the "Ora Phillips" quilt, and the original - the Nancy Miller Grider quilt.  Peterman catalog courtesy Suit Yourself International.

When the maker or origin of a quilt constitutes part of its value, provenance (the documented chain of ownership back to its creator) is important.  The "Ora Phillips" quilt was legitimized (and its value enhanced to more than $1,500) by appearing in the museum exhibit with Todaro and her husband identified as its owner. Lecturer Streeter naturally assumed the curators and Todaro had verified the quilt was indeed an African-American original.  Mark French, the ebay seller, says he trusted what he was told when he bought the quilt from Ohio dealer Michael Council, who got the quilter's name and race and the museum flyer from Todaro herself when she sold him the quilt.   But Todaro says the museum and Council were mistaken, and she was just the go-between.  In reality, she said, the unused, unwashed quilt - "one of the most graphic" she has seen - belonged to a now-dead, unnamed friend, who bought the quilt directly from Ora Phillips.  Todaro said she had simply brought the quilt to the museum, and later, when her friend became ill, sold it to Council on her behalf. She had no valid contact information for her friend's family.  

I was able to locate only two Arkansas women, living or dead, named Ora Phillips born before 1960. Both are white.

Later, after being shown pictures of the Peterman and Grider quilts, Todaro said did not "have enough knowledge to inject an opinion" but that her friend "would not have knowingly reported false data". She said her friend had bought the quilt for $350 at a craft or flea market near Little Rock from an African-American woman named Ora Phillips, and that when her friend had asked Phillips about the inspiration for her design,  Phillips replied that "she’d seen something similar that inspired her in a catalog or book" whose name she could not recall.  

But the Phillips quilt is not merely "similar" to the Peterman illustration.  It is virtually identical, right down to the fabrics.   Either Phillips's quilt was inspired by Grider's and became the prototype for the Peterman quilt (but was never revealed as such); or Phillips somehow forgot she had made a line-for-line copy of the Peterman quilt; or a mass-produced knockoff of a 19th century white Kentucky girl's well-known original quilt was successfully passed off as the recent, unique handiwork of an elderly black Arkansan.   

Whichever the case, the "Ora Phillips" quilt cannot be described as an example of African-American "improvisation," African-inspired color and design, or "Quilt Code" symbolism.  Instead, as Streeter observed when she learned of the quilt's true origin, it stands as an object lesson in "how historical inaccuracies, errors and nonfactual information take root and become perpetuated, whether it is a matter of incomplete research, the failure to verify sources, taking information on faith, getting carried away by imagination, etc. etc., and it is far from unique."

Whether French ever informed the high bidder of this quilt's recent origin is unknown. 

 

Diaspora-era African textile history online

Thanks to exhibits like the one discussed above, when asked to describe a "typical" African-American quilt many people will use words like "improvisational," "strip-pieced", "multiple patterns," "brightly colored" and "rhythmic", all of which are described as "Africanisms."   Some, such as folklorist John Michael Vlach, have even claimed that African-Amerian quilts that lack these attributes "reflect a lesson well-learned rather than a heritage well-remembered," and that "the only thing African or Afro-American about" such quilts is their makers' race.  Black quilters who use subdued colors and regular patterns are, according to this view, acting white.

Vlach, Wahlman, Dobard and others trace these Africanisms to contemporary African textiles, many of which do indeed share those attributes. 

But would these fabrics have been familiar to the people brought here as slaves in the 18th and early 19th centuries?  Are those "textile memories" reflected in African-American quilts such as those made in Gee's Bend?  How accurate are conventional ideas about Africanisms in African-American quilts?  

I have been investigating this subject for the past two years, and the answers are surprising. 

Because of its length, I am publishing my research in serial form. The first several parts can be found here, and you can request notice of later installments by clicking here.

At the end of the series, I hope to be able to provide some ideas for quilt designs that recall the textiles America's African-born slaves would have known and used. 

Chainstitch sewing machines

The earliest sewing machines - for example, the Wilcox & Gibbs machines first manufactured in the 1850s - didn't use two threads (top and bobbin). Instead, they used just one thread to produce a chainstitch.  If you've ever dismantled a vintage feedsack or had to pull that little string to open a bag of grass seed, you've seen chainstitching.  But for dressmaking, the stitches were really small - in the sample below, 20 per inch!  The seam is incredibly strong and, as you'll see below, rather pretty too.  Read more about chainstitch machines here.

One side of machine chainstitching (fabrics c.1875)...

...and the other.


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