| Machine
Quilting in the 19th Century
Twenty-first century quilters are quick to dismiss machine quilting as something
less than "authentic" - a nasty modern shortcut not available to our
great-great-grandmothers. But the earliest Singer home sewing machine ads
mention machine quilting, and the star of the DAR Museum's quilt collection is a
machine-quilted quilt dating from the last quarter of the 19th century.
One of
the most dazzling examples is a wholecloth "family tree" quilt made by
(Mr.) J.B. Roberson of Cleburne, Texas (Bresnehan and Puentes, Lone
Stars: A Legacy of Texas Quilts 1836-1936.). The entire face of
this vivid Turkey red quilt is free-motion machine-quilted in white thread with
vines, scrolls, the names of Roberson's ancestors, and the date it was completed
(1893) - in careful, elaborate script!
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Just
one of H.T. Davis's many quilting frames |
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Also named in the quilt is Roberson's
brother-in-law, J.W.Mills, who held the bulk of the quilt as Roberson labored
over it. Roberson was a sewing machine salesman, and he may have made the
quilt as a marketing tool, using a quilting attachment invented in 1892 by Henry
Davis of Chicago. |
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Hoover's
1872 design |
U.S. Patent Office records
are full of home machine quilting frames dating almost from
the time sewing machines were first in home use, and many
modern systems look very much like their 19th century
forebears.
By the end of the Civil War, sewing machines were entering
homes at the rate of 20,000 per year; in 1871 Singer sold an
amazing 180,000 machines. Mrs. Augusta Hoover received the first U.S. patent for
a machine quilting
frame. Its description as an
"improvement" suggests that it was not the first of
its kind. Like most of the systems that followed, it consisted
of a two-bar, ratchet-geared roller frame that held the quilt
taut. (A comparable modern example would be the John Flynn
system.) The frame then slid along tracks attached to the bed
of the sewing machine like the carriage of a typewriter. As
the user operated the sewing machine, the frame would move
along the track, allowing perfectly straight, parallel lines
to be quilted. |
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Just six months later, W.H. Heffley introduced a simplified
system. He removed the tracks and
added a template that allowed a pattern to be stitched that
looked a lot like the "wavy diamond" design often
seen on late 1960s machine-quilted yard goods. |
A 19th century quilting machine - is this Crall's design? |
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By 1877 J.J. Crall decided it should be the machine, not the
frame, that moved; his system will be recognized by modern
quilters as the precursor to today's longarm quilting system. Just as today, the machine sits on a platform which
moves along a track underneath the quilt. But only parallel
lines could be quilted, and since the electric sewing machine
was still decades in the future, a handcrank on the platform
operated the sewing machine and moved the machine along the
quilt in its frame.
But other inventors thought the stationary machine system was
the way to go. H.T. Davis's 1882 design made the whole frame
(all eight feet of it!) move along the floor on casters
alongside the sewing machine. This wasn't exactly practical - it required a a room at least
18 feet long and remarkable coordination on the part of the
quilter, who had to move the frame with one hand at just the
right speed as she pedaled (or cranked) the machine.
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Crall's patent |
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Over the
next decade Mr. Davis patented more than a dozen different
machine quilting frames. It's not hard to picture poor Mrs.
Davis patiently testing out her husband's latest
"improvement" and wondering why she ever let him
know she could quilt.
During the following 30 years more than 100 other frames for
machine quilting were patented, many so elaborate that only
their inventor could think they were practical. Many were
downright wacky. The foot pressure on one incredibly
complicated machine could only be adjusted by adding or
removing lead shot! In fact, for decades the only real changes were in whether and
how the frame rested on legs or hung from the ceiling, and in
how the frame held the quilt taut. J.J. Crall's visionary design stood alone.
The first real innovation was Frank Palmer's 1895 system , which produced one large, central medallion by
revolving the quilt on its frame under the sewing machine - in the same way that the arm of a record player traces
the path of a record.
Because of its limited capabilities
and
the huge space it required, it's doubtful Palmer's frame was
intended for home use. But from the patents and advertisements
of the period, it's clear many other frames were aimed at the
home quilter. And at least one (Clayton's 1897 design,
which hung from a ceiling track) allowed
free-motion work.
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Heffley's
"wavy line" frame
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Palmer's
"record player" frame
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Clayton's free-motion
frame
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It's notable that most quilting machine patents date from the
last decade before the 20th century, when quilts were falling
out of fashion and were considered more functional than
decorative. This (and short money in the Depression) may
explain why no patents for such machines were issued after the
mid-1930s, when quilting as an art form again became popular.
Why, then, don't we see more machine-quilted 19th century
quilts? Here are a few possibilities:
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Modern
notions to the contrary, quilting was as much a creative
outlet for our foremothers as it is for us. In an era
when nearly every woman did needlework and elaborate
hand quilting designs were still the norm, machine
quilting may have been - well, boring. It also may have
felt a bit like cheating.
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Quilting
systems were advertised as timesavers. If unlike
"best" quilts which were carefully passed down
as heirlooms, machine-quilted quilts were intended for
daily use, most of them may simply have worn out long
before we got a chance to see them.
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Just as few 21st century quilters have the room or money for a
longarm system, it's possible many quilters found the
elaborate machine quilting systems too big and too expensive
to justify. When Pa could clamp four poles together and hang
them from the porch ceiling for Ma to quilt on, why buy some
fancy gadget?
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Until the 1870s, sewing machine technology just wasn't sufficiently user-friendly to add more complications. Reading the instructions for this 1858
Grover & Baker machine make operating a 21st century machine look like a walk in the park!
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Walking and free-motion feet are blessings of the late 20th
century. Although machine-quilting with a hoop is possible, if
you've ever tried it with a regular presser foot, you know
what a nightmare of puckers can result. It may simply not have
been worth the trouble.
So can today's quilter feel "authentic" in
machine-quilting a top she's made of turn-of-the-century
reproduction fabrics? Based on what we've seen of 19th century
machine quilting systems, if she keeps in mind the limitations
of those systems when deciding on her designs, and reserves
machine-quilting for simply-pieced tops, we can happily answer
"Yes!"
Interested in early sewing machines? Treat yourself - visit www.needlebar.com.
More quilting frame patents can been seen
by visiting the US Patent Office at
www.uspto.gov/netahtml/search-adv.htm
and entering the code CCL/112/119 in the search field, then
selecting 1790 to 1975 from the pulldown menu.
Illustrations courtesy of the US Patent Office
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Do a Google keyword search on "quilt
humility block" and you will find almost a thousand quilt-related websites claiming that back in the old days,
quilters would put a deliberate error in their quilts - a
block turned sideways, a different shade of red in one part,
something skewed or "wrong". This, we are told,
comes from the idea that since only God is perfect, making a
perfect quilt is prideful. Thus the "humility block"
was an exercise in Biblical decorum. Sometimes the story is
more elaborate: the "humility block" appears at the
lower right corner, or we're told that if a bride made a perfect quilt,
her marriage would be unhappy, or that the practice began with
the Amish or the Native Americans.
It's
certainly a nice idea. What quilter hasn't goofed at least
once in each quilt? Rather than rip out and resew, all we need
to do is say "well, that'll be my Humility Block" -
and we get to feel connected with our foremothers in the
bargain. But the research of quilt historians reveals that the
"humility block" appears to be a figment of mid-20th
century imagination.
The subject
arose in a June 2000 Quilt
History List discussion. Quilt historian and AQS appraiser
Bobbie Aug, who has taught
pre-1940 Old Order Amish-style quiltmaking, said she once
spent a week with an Old Order Amish family. The Amish
quilters she asked about the "humility block" were
aghast. To them "an intentional error is saying just the
opposite - that their work is perfect and that they would have
to be purposeful in order to make mistakes."
After 20
years of research among the Amish in Missouri, Iowa, Indiana,
Ohio and Pennsylvania, Bettina
Havig has developed close connections with Amish
quiltmakers; she's written two books on the subject. Ask an
Amish quilter about the "humility block," she says,
"and the answer will be 'I make enough mistakes without
making them on purpose'." Havig dismisses the story as
"just one more attempt to romanticize an aspect of
quiltmaking." She notes that not only has she found no
evidence supporting this tradition among the Amish; she
hasn't found "any sort of quilt superstition" in
that community.
Xenia
Cord, a quilt historian who has taught folklore at Indiana
University for more than two decades, also wondered about the
concept of "intentional mistakes". "If
intentionally making a design flaw in order to avoid the
perfection that is relegated to God alone is done to keep the
maker humble, isn't this in itself a kind of arrogance? (i.e.,
'I'm so good that unless I mess up intentionally, I am
perfect.') Where's the humility in that?" Cord also wryly
wonders, "[I]s there a quilter among us who is so good
that she makes NO errors in piecing, joining, appliqueing, or
quilting (that can't be fudged or covered up)?" She
hypothesized that "the whole 'intentional flaw' thing may
be the observer's way of trying to explain why an unknown
quilter, who has made something the observer can't make, would
have left that piece upside down, or that heart slightly
lopsided, or that line of quilting unfinished."
In her
usual meticulous way, quilt historian Barbara Brackman researched the issue
for the June 1988 issue of Quilters Newsletter Magazine, and
actually tried to trace the story back to its origins.
Brackman says no mention of the practice appears in any of the
early 20th century quilt books. The first published reference
she found to the "humility block" custom is in
Florence Peto's 1949 book American Quilts and Coverlets,
in relation to one piece of chintz in one quilt:
In certain
localities superstitious quiltmakers tried this way to divert
the "Evil Eye" which otherwise might be cast
jealously on human endeavor; it was analogous to the Oriental
idea that to make a perfect thing is to imitate the Deity,
therefore unlucky and presumptuous.
Peto gives
no source for her information, nor does she specify the
"certain localities". Brackman notes that Peto's
story is identical to the one told at Oriental rug shops
(which most rug historians also consider fictional).
Brackman
also researched folklore publications for evidence of the
practice, and found many quilt traditions had been recorded (
for example, in 1930s Louisiana a Log Cabin quilt hung on a
clothesline was an invitation to a barn raising). But even in
oral histories taken as late as the 1970s no mention was made
of a "humility block". Yet by 1988, every quilter
she interviewed had heard of it, although none had actually
been taught the practice by an old-time quilter. They had all
read it in a book or magazine, or learned it from their quilt
guild.
Historian
Jeannette Lasansky, a leading force behind the Union County,
Pennsylvania Oral Traditions Project, addressed the question
in a 1994 symposium paper, "Myth and Reality in Craft
Tradition" (On the Cutting Edge, copyright 1994,
Oral Traditions Project). The Project is known for its
painstaking research into all areas of folk art.
Lasansky writes:
Neither
do many old-time [Amish and Mennonite] quilters
acknowledge the accuracy of [the humility block]
myth....Rather they relate being glad to have had even
half a dozen quilts in their hope chest [instead of
the dozen Ruth Finley claimed was common to 19th
century quilters] and of never needing to make a
deliberate mistake. Neither of these
particularly well-entrenched myths has been confirmed
in any 19th century manuscripts.
The recent
research of Louisianan Ashley Graves into quilting and
folklore presents another possibility for these sometimes
oddly placed blocks. She observes that historically, "women are considered to be
emotional about nearly everything they do," and notes that our culture tends to
automatically presume a deep symbolism exists in women's art and craftwork.
She
then compares that attitude with the matter-of-fact approach
of actual quilters from her own family:
My
great aunt [Norma Lee Jeffrey, of Deville in central
Louisiana] was showing me a quilt her mother did about
75 years ago. She pointed out that about 6 blocks were
turned sideways so that the birds were facing an
awkward direction as if she had sewn the blocks
together in the dark and didn't realize that they were
turned wrong. My great aunt then explained to me that
her mother did it because so many women make quilts
with the same pattern. But if the quilter did
something a little different it would make hers unique
and be sort of a signature. That way each quilt is
unique, even the ones made by the same quilter.
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Regional Characteristics of Traditional Amish
Quilts
As
their communities grew and farmland became more expensive in the
years after WWII, the Amish increasingly have turned from
farming to various crafts as an income source, wisely
capitalizing on both the nation's tourism industry and the
romanticized notions of outsiders about Amish culture.
Particularly since the 1970s (when quilts became trendy again)
"Amish" quilts have been marketed at gift shops,
farmsteads, and quaint-looking "farm auctions" in the
region, but such quilts are made in designs and colors carefully
selected to
appeal to mainstream America. They have little, if
anything, in
common with traditional Amish quilts; in fact, the communities' ordnung
(rules) forbid such "worldly" quilts being used in an
Amish home. Whether
such quilts should be described as "Amish" is
debatable. Could a plate of sushi made by an Italian chef
reasonably be called "Italian food"? (Or as they
say down here in Dixie, "if the cat had kittens in the
oven, we wouldn't call 'em biscuits.")
It's
also worth noting that in 1900, there were only about 3,700
Amish in the entire North American continent (even today
the total adult population is around 56,000). If
every "antique Amish" quilt listed on ebay and sold at
auctions and in antique shops were in fact Amish-made, we would
have to conclude that from infancy to their graves, the Amish of
both sexes did nothing but quilt!
Nao Nomura and Janneken Smucker's recent paper in the 2006 edition of Uncoverings convincingly refutes the common
presumption (apparently originating with Robert Bishop and Elizabeth Safanda's unsubstantiated claim in A Gallery of Amish Quilts) that the Amish began to abandon their traditional or "classic" quiltmaking style beginning around WWII . Through fiber analysis
and genealogical research, Nomura and Smucker demonstrate that of about half the Mifflin County quilts in the IQSC collection previously assumed to date before 1940 were made much later - often as late as the 1980s. In one case, an Amish quilter identified
a quilt previously dated 1890-1895 as one she had made of old fabrics between 1980-1990.
The authors also point out that while romantic notions persist "that Amish women made quilts from home-grown wool and dyed the cloth using berries, barks and roots found in the countryside," recent research
shows "that Amish quiltmakers purchased fabric from traveling salesmen and mail-order catalogs, a fact that produces a much less pastoral image than shearing sheep and dyeing wool."
There
are Amish settlements in 23 states, but most communities are in
(in descending order) Ohio, Pennsylvania, Indiana, Wisconsin and
Michigan. No
matter what community or region they come from, traditional Amish quilts
share four characteristics: solid colors only (except for
backing), no white fabric, piecing only (no applique), and
dense, elaborate quilting, frequently in dark-colored
thread. The only representational image seen in the quilts
in the IQSC database is the basket, although flowers often
appear as quilted motifs.
Amish quilts should not be confused with those of
their Mennonite sisters, whose quilting traditions frequently
allow applique and printed fabrics, or with those of the
non-Amish/Mennonite Pennsylvania Dutch, whose vividly-colored
pieced quilts were executed in the Lancaster blue, double pink,
chrome yellow and "poison" green calicos of the late
19th century.
So
- what makes a quilt authentically Amish? Because
of the mass-marketing of Amish culture over the past 40 years,
to
accurately understand the aesthetics of traditional Amish
quilts, we must look at quilts made before the end of
WWII. The
following summary was compiled from data on more than 300
pre-1950 Amish quilts in the International Quilt Study
Center collection (keyword search "Amish") and
the IQSC Guide
to Amish quilts. The little quilts pictured in each column
as examples are colormatched, doll-sized adaptations I made of
"human-sized" quilts from each region; click on them
to see a larger image.
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Lancaster
County PA
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Mifflin
County PA |
Midwest |
| Nebraska |
Byler |
Peachy
a/k/a Renno |
| Fabrics |
Fine
dress-weight wool |
Cotton (74%), rayon (13%), or wool (8%) |
Cotton |
| Colors |
All
shades and tints of the spectrum except white; preference
for contrasting deep/ midrange, highly saturated colors |
Limited
to shades of grey, brown, blue, purple |
All
shades and tints of the spectrum except white; often
include bright shades of pink, yellow, orange, blue |
All
colors of the spectrum except white; often have black
background with bright shades of goldenrod, blue, purple,
green |
All
shades and tints of the spectrum including pastels, but
limited use of green, no white; often have black
background |
| Quilt
patterns |

9-Patch, Bars,
Center Diamond, Log Cabin, Sunshine and Shadow,
"contained" Crazy (crazy blocks alternating with
plain blocks)
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One
Patch, 4-Patch, 9-Patch, Bars |

One Patch, 4-Patch,
9-Patch, Bars, Basket, Bowtie, Center Diamond, Crown of
Thorns, Fan, Jacob’s Ladder, Star of Bethlehem, Streak
of Lightning, Sunshine and Shadow, Triangles, Tumbling
Blocks, Variable Star
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One-Patch, 4-Patch,
9-Patch, Bars, Basket, Basket of Chips, Bear's Paw, Bow
Tie, Bricks, Broken Dishes, Buzz Saw, Cactus Basket,
Carolina Lily, Carpenter's Wheel, Chinese Coins, Crosses
and Losses, Diamonds, Double or Triple Irish Chain, Fan,
Flying Geese, Half Log Cabin, Hearts and Gizzards, Hen and
Chickens, Herringbone, Hole in the Barn Door, Jack in the
Pulpit, Jacob's Ladder, Kansas Dugout, Lemoyne Star, Log
Cabin, Lost Ship, North Star, Ocean Waves, Pine Tree, Rail
Fence, Railroad Crossing, Rob Peter to Pay Paul, Roman
Stripe, Sailboat, Six-Pointed Star, Square-in- a-Square,
Star of Bethlehem, Streak of Lightning, String-Pieced
Star, Sunshine and Shadow, Tulip, Tumbling Blocks,
Variable Star |
Courtesy
of Greta Boioli, here are some excellent closeup photos of an
Old Order Amish quilt (probably 1930s given the heliotrope
cotton backing). Note the various lightweight wools used
including crepe, and the unmitered binding, which is much wider
than is typically found in mainstream American quilts.
More
traditional, mostly pre-1950 Amish quilts online:
Amish
Quilts of the Midwest (Holmes County, OH) - 1999 exhibit
curated by Julie Silber
Amish
Quilts of Lancaster County, PA - 1999 exhibit curated by
Julie Silber
Revere
Collection of Lancaster County, PA Amish quilts (formerly
the Esprit Collection)
Amish
quilt collection (all types) of Jacques and Catherine Légeret
of Switzerland (also some Mennonite quilts for comparison)
Amish
quilt collection (all types - also a few Mennonite quilts)
of Faith and Stephen Brown
...Now
compare with the quilts currently for sale by the Amish in this
photo.
A
good article giving an overview
of Amish quilts at the Fowler Museum
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